Many years ago I worked
for the Heart Foundation and it was standard practice to tell anyone newly diagnosed
with high blood cholesterol that they had eaten their last piece of cheese. For
some I had taken away their reason to live. Between the sobs they would plead:
“Just one last cheese toasty, please.” I just had to shake my head and call for
the onsite counsellor.
Now there is review article suggesting that I have been the cause of much undue concern.
Beyond saturated fat
The human creation of
cheese was a very clever way to concentrate milk and increase it’s shelf life,
making it a reliable food source. The enduring problem was its relatively high
salt and saturated fat content, a combination that would raise both blood
pressure and blood cholesterol. Dutch researchers have now looked at all the
randomised control trials, most with a crossover design, comparing cheese and
other foods such as butter, milk and tofu.
The authors say: “The
results consistently showed that that the effects of cheese on lipids and
lipoproteins were different than expected from the fat content.” What they
are saying is, although cheese is high in saturated fat it didn’t raise
cholesterol as predicted. Why? The abundant calcium in cheese could be binding
with fats to reduce their absorption. Previous studies have observed that dairy
calcium minimises a rise in blood cholesterol. The phospholipids in cheese may
also be attenuating any rise in blood cholesterol.
Hard or soft?
As far as I can gather,
the research was done primarily on hard cheese, such as cheddar. There wasn’t a
study on soft cheeses like camembert. I suspect that soft cheeses would also
have little effect on blood cholesterol, although that suspicion may be biased
due to my absolute delight in enjoying an excellent brie or camembert.
What does it all mean?
In nutrition there are
many questions. It would be perfect if we could say cheese is good or bad for
the heart. It depends. Even now the Heart Foundation is not a big fan of full cream dairy products. They tell us to cut them out and replace them with reduced-fat or low-fat versions. Let’s be
honest, reduced-fat cheese is dreadful, akin to eating the soft plastic casings
for mobile phones.
So do this. Buy cheese.
Buy really nice cheese. Like triple cream camembert. Enjoy it. Just don’t eat
too much.